Fiji this and Fiji that...

Bula!
Guitarists serenade us through the custom hall at Nadi airport, while kindly touts deck us out in necklaces of shells; suitably welcomed, Jac and I have a day ahead of Jess´arrival to sort out our first port of call - Adi´s place on Waya Island - chosen for its simplicity and village location. Warm air greets us and we are back to palm trees and tropical exotics, even though this is winter, Fiji style.

After a nailbiting rendezvous with Jess - her plane is an hour late and we´ve booked us all onto the ´Wasaýa Flyer´ferry to Waya first thing, we head off to the islands. Located between a village and island school, we spend three nights at Adi´s place in a traditional ´bure´, no electricity or creature comforts and we are the only guests here - there is one tiny shop that sells some biscuits and washing powder, and tinned fish (?) - a bit strange when the Pacific is all around you...These three days are a bit odd, everyone tries to be friendly, but we are not used to accommodation with three meals a day - as it all comes on these islands!- visitors here tend to arrive in organised packages, while we prefer our independent style, and its not without a little concern that we get ourselves back on the Flyer - concern from the locals that we have nowhere booked to go!

Still, we then head to Tevawa, and find ourselves at Otto and Fanny´s place where things are instantl more welcoming: a clean, white sand beach, smiling, happy staff, and room for us in their dormitory for ten: fine as long as its just us and its long term inhabitants: bugs and all things that go scratch in the night! Jessie, especially, and us, get some quality holiday here - snorkelling, trips to the Blue Lagoon beach - yes, where they filmed both the movies, sea kayaks, every other day is hot and blue, and evenings with decent food, good company from the other guests, and a locals music night when the guitars and kava come out, and we can ´shake it not break it´to the lilting ballads and songs.

Jessies departure looms on the Saturday. We were intending to ferry with her to the mainland, but due to ferry breakdowns she has to book the expensive seaplane with ´Turtle Airwaýs - used to ferry the rich and famous to Turtle Island, and we catch the ferry after the weekend.We anxiously wait on the beach for the water taxi to take Jess away - but no show! 15 minutes to go now till take-off, taxi late, we spot a white speck in the distance, lo! the plane comes to her! The tiny white seaplane lands in front of us and noses onto the beach, Jess hops in, movie-star style, we , and of course Jessie´s fan club of resort staff, wave her off inot the clouds from the beach!
Phew, we laugh all the way back to our bure!
We stay on for Sunday and Monday, our last night is great - all the local kids from the catholic church , ages 1-15, come to sing at the resort: brilliant, enchanting and funny - all in a line and giving it their all...

Fiji really grew on us, Jess had a great holiday. Again, on the islands people live a very simple life, we hear no news for 10 days, and the rest of the world seems a very far-off place. They run their tourism for themselves, the global brands stay away, everyone benefits, and not a television in sight!